We ended our last summer in Switzerland in Lugano, on the way to a flight home from Milan. Lugano is the part of Switzerland that already feels Italian, with Italian shop signs and Italian food on every corner, and that made it the natural last stop. From there, getting into Italy is not one route but three, and the right one depends on what your family actually wants from the crossing.
Here is how the three options compare, what each one costs when you have a Swiss Travel Pass, and who each one is really for.
The Three Routes at a Glance
| Route | Best For | Reservation | Duration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bernina Express panoramic | Scenery, photographers | Required | ~4h 20m Chur to Tirano |
| Regular Rhaetian trains, same line | Scenery on a budget | Not required | Similar, depends on connections |
| Lugano to Milan via EuroCity | Speed and airport links | Not required | ~1h 15m to Milan / ~1h to Malpensa |
Option 1: The Bernina Express
The Bernina Express, often called one of the most beautiful train rides in the world.
The Bernina Express runs from Chur or St. Moritz down to Tirano, just over the Italian border, climbing the Bernina Pass, passing the Morteratsch Glacier, and spiraling down the Brusio viaduct. It is the route most people picture when they think of a scenic Swiss-Italian crossing, and the views really do match the reputation.
Works well for: first-time visitors, photographers, anyone who wants the ride itself to be part of the trip. Families with older kids enjoy it. Toddlers may find a four-hour sit a stretch.
Pros:
- Full panoramic windows in dedicated glass-domed carriages
- The Swiss Travel Pass covers the base fare all the way to Tirano, which is unusual for a route ending in Italy
- Year-round service with very different scenery in winter and summer
Cons:
- Seat reservation is mandatory for every passenger, adult or child, and is not covered by any Swiss pass
- Reservation fees run roughly CHF 32 to 44 per person depending on season, which adds up fast for a family
- Over four hours is a long ride for restless little ones
Good to know: reservations open 365 days in advance and the high-season slots fill up quickly, so book early if this is your route.
For our family of five with three reservation fees stacked on top of the train cost, this one ended up outside our budget. With older kids or traveling as a couple, it is the pick most worth prioritizing.
Option 2: Regular Rhaetian Trains on the Same Line
St. Moritz station, where the ordinary regional trains to Tirano depart from the same tracks.
The thing a lot of travelers miss is that the Bernina Express is a specific panoramic service running on tracks that regular Rhaetian Railway trains also use. You can ride Chur or St. Moritz to Tirano on an ordinary regional train, see the same glaciers and the same spiral viaduct, and pay nothing beyond your normal Swiss Travel Pass fare.
Works well for: budget-conscious travelers, families with kids too young to sit still for photos, and anyone who does not want to plan around a reservation window.
Pros:
- The same views as the Bernina Express at no extra cost
- No reservation, no assigned seat, no booking deadline
- Some departures include a Family Coach with a small play area
Cons:
- Standard train windows instead of a panoramic glass roof
- Normal timetable rather than a dedicated scenic schedule, so connections take more planning
- Less onboard atmosphere than the purpose-built panoramic cars
This was the option that looked best on paper for us, glacier views without five reservation fees. The catch was the routing back up through Graubünden, and we simply ran out of days.
Option 3: Lugano to Milan via EuroCity or Regional
An SBB train departing Lugano station toward Italy.
For anyone already in Ticino, this is usually the simplest option. A direct EuroCity or Trenitalia train runs from Lugano to Milano Centrale in about 1 hour 15 minutes, no reservation needed. If your flight leaves from Malpensa specifically, there is an even more direct regional train through Mendrisio and Stabio that reaches the airport in a bit over an hour, skipping central Milan entirely.
Works well for: travelers heading to Milan or Malpensa Airport, anyone short on time, and families who would rather avoid a multi-hour scenic ride with little kids.
Pros:
- Fastest of the three options by a wide margin
- No reservation required
- Direct regional service to Malpensa avoids the Milano Centrale transfer
Cons:
- Least scenic of the three, mostly lowland and lakeside rather than high alpine
- Requires a separate Italian-segment ticket once you cross the border, on top of your Swiss Travel Pass
Lake and hillside views just before the train crosses into Italy.
This is the route we actually used to reach Malpensa. One detail worth knowing: the Swiss Travel Pass covers everything up to the last Swiss station, but you need a separate ticket for the Italian leg. At the SBB counter in Lugano, staff wrote our ticket starting from Mendrisio, the last Swiss station before the border, rather than from Lugano. That kept the whole Swiss portion covered by our Family Pass and meant we only paid for the short Italian segment instead of double-paying for track we already had covered.
The separate paper ticket for the Mendrisio to Malpensa segment, bought on top of the Swiss Travel Pass.
More Family Trip Reads
Quick Verdict
- Best scenery: the Bernina Express, if the reservation cost fits your budget
- Best value: the regular trains on the same line, same views for free
- Best for speed and simplicity: the Lugano to Milan or Malpensa route
Practical Reference
Swiss Travel Pass Coverage
| Segment | Covered? |
|---|---|
| Travel within Switzerland | Yes |
| Chur or St. Moritz to Tirano on the Bernina line | Yes, base fare only |
| Bernina Express seat reservation | No, always separate |
| Lugano to Chiasso or Mendrisio | Yes |
| Anything past the Italian border, except Tirano | No, separate ticket needed |
When to Buy the Italian Ticket
| Route | Ticket starts from |
|---|---|
| Lugano to Milan | Mendrisio or Chiasso, depending on the train |
| Lugano to Malpensa | Mendrisio |
| St. Moritz onward into Italy | Tirano |
Kids' Fares
| Age | Within Switzerland (Family Card) | Italian segment |
|---|---|---|
| Under 6 | Free | Usually free |
| 6 to 15 | Free with Swiss Family Card | About half adult fare |
| 16 and up | Adult fare | Adult fare |
The Swiss Family Card waives the base fare for kids, not reservation fees. On the Bernina Express, the full reservation price still applies per child.
Common Questions
Does the Swiss Travel Pass cover the trip to Milan?
No, except on the Bernina line to Tirano. The pass covers travel within Switzerland only, up to the last Swiss station on your route. Beyond the border, you need a separate ticket.
Is a seat reservation required for the Bernina Express?
Yes. Reservations are mandatory for everyone riding the Bernina Express panoramic train, adults and children, whether paying full fare or using the Swiss Travel Pass. The pass covers the base fare. The reservation fee applies in full for every seat.
Can I ride the Bernina route without a reservation?
Yes. Regular Rhaetian Railway trains run on the exact same line with the same glacier and viaduct views, and no reservation is needed. You just won't be sitting in a panoramic glass-domed carriage.
Is the Swiss Family Card valid in Italy?
No. The Swiss Family Card, which lets kids travel free with the Swiss Travel Pass, only applies within Switzerland. Once your route crosses into Italy, standard child fares apply instead, usually around half the adult price for kids 6 to 15.
Is Mendrisio the fastest way to Malpensa?
Yes. The train via Mendrisio and Stabio is the quickest way from southern Switzerland to Milan Malpensa Airport, taking just over an hour. It skips central Milan entirely.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Assuming the Swiss Travel Pass gets you all the way to Milan. It doesn't, except on the Bernina line to Tirano.
- Forgetting to reserve a Bernina Express seat. Reservations are mandatory and sell out in high season.
- Buying the Italian-segment ticket starting from a Swiss station, which means paying twice for track you already had covered.
- Assuming the Swiss Family Card works once you are over the border. It doesn't.
- Not checking connection times before leaving your hotel. Swiss trains are frequent, but not every route runs as often as you'd expect.
Linea
Professional mom of three and somehow still standing. Low-prep activities, cozy traditions, kid-friendly recipes & finds for curious kids, because we're all winging it together :)
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